hmm, i wonder if 12v needs to be supplied to that black wire? which would also explain it going to other things that need 12vdc. Id assume that the black wire and red wire are connected then at the relay once the key is turned on?

http://www.buggydepot.com/buggy-tech-ce ... 544911.jpg
Im pretty sure this is where i got the idea that the black is a ground because it is connected to the same place as the green in this diagram.

Yea I saw that, and got confused because I've been seeing other diagrams that say different. Check out these two...

Near the bottom of this page...
http://scootdawg.proboards.com/index.cg ... read=21253

2nd post of this page...
http://thescooterprofessor.proboards.co ... age=1#7460


Right now I don't have it going anywhere, and it doesn't seem to be hurting anything, but I'd still like to do get it connected.

That Is so odd. Both of them say it provides power. Have you happened to hook a multi meter upto the black wire and ground while the bike is running to see if it actually puts out power?

Also, since you don't have that hooked up, I'm assuming all your accessories (lights) are run off the red wire?

I have the lights right off the battery right now. I have to do some tests to see how much is drawn vs charged, but still working out the wiring first. Should be able to get a test down this weekend. I did test the black earlier though, and got nothing off it.

Congratz elCapitan

Contrary to the picture in my own guide, the black wire is usually (but not always!) a positive voltage reference for the internal regulator circuitry, and should be connected to +12v. I recommend this procedure for deciding where to tie in the black wire:

1. Measure DC volts across the battery while running the engine. It may be bouncy or well below 13.5v ~ 14v. Take note of fluctuations in the charging voltage.

2. While still taking measurements, jumper the black wire directly to the positive side of your battery.

Look for the voltage levels smoothing out or rising to more optimal levels (14v or so). If this happens, the black is most likely meant to be connected to +12v (switched) power. If not, it is most likely meant to be tied to ground.

HTH

Great info!^ Its annoying how many different stator slash rectifier's there are out there.

Ok, so I tested voltage at the battery at idle, on two multimeters, and get between 16 and 17 volts! That seems a little high to me, but everything is working fine so far.

Yea n mine did the same thing! I was reading like 18v on my meter and was like thats way wrong. So I rode to a friends house and used his and it was saying 17 some volts. (this is off the battery) the. I tested my black wire and it's putting out like 12-13v with switch on.

Yea I'm getting over 18v while reving, 14v +/- at idle with the brakes applied and headlight on, but it's always very sporadic and jumps from 14-20ish in all scenarios. It's currently a single 55 watt bulb up front, and here I thought the headlight would still drain too much. lol. I only get about .3-.5v off the black (to ground) with it disconnected, so I did the black to battery positive jumper test like BDX suggested and it leveled off to a little over 15v at the battery while reving! I'm going to make it a permanent jumper and hope it works out for the long haul. lol. Cabin Fever is 5 days away and I'm not messing with it any further for now.

BDX, thanks again for all your help and sharing your wisdom! I owe you a few beers!


As for the 5 wire "11-pole" rectifier, and the apparent floating ground trigger on the 11-pole stator I got from Scrappydogscooters, they are still a mystery. If anyone has any issues or input on either of those, post up here because they don't take electrical components back once installed, so I hope I can find some way to use them. To all others planning an 11-pole upgrade, I hope you're reading this!!!

^ Yeah, I'm trying to figure out either how to use them or if I can return them. Probably just going to have to buy new stuff.

I find it hard to believe that nobody has told them that they don't work before. That means they work for someone, or nobody has bought them before. And since they literally told me they don't know how to wire it up, I've suggested to them that they should test it out to find a way to get it to work, so we'll see. That or take them off the site since they don't work!!! lol

Also, from what I've been reading, the 8-pole and 11-pole flywheel rotor are the same, so they've gotten another $30 out of me. Seems misleading to customers, or they're clueless about their own products, neither of which instills a lot of confidence.

I'll keep doing research on it. I'd like to use these parts somehow too. Let us know if you figure anything out with it!

^well I actually just went though the same 11pole and 8pole flywheel deal. They both have 8 magnets in them (I placed a screwdriver on the inside of the flywheel and rotated the flywheel counting the magnets) BUT the 11 pole flywheel has a larger inner diameter than the 8. My 11pole stator fit inside my 8pole flywheel, but there are variations of the 11 pole stators that are larger and actually require a larger flywheel. My buddy has an 11pole that did not fit inside my 8 pole flywheel.

Ok, good. I don't feel quite as ripped off now. lol. I meant to check the fitment on the last stator swap, but forgot. Hey, I do have an extra 11 pole stator now though, so I'll try it with my old stock flywheel. I have the 161QML GY6B. Most things are the same as a 157QMJ, but who knows...

yea its crazy that you never know what you are getting. I was a little bummed when i realized i had the "smaller" 11 pole. I figure the bigger the stator, the larger the coils are.