I actually have that article printed out already, but it doesn't discuss the different 11 pole stators and rectifiers. I have maybe 3 different wiring diagrams too. Lots of similarities, but some differences, and I'd like to figure out the differences. Could prove useful for folks in the future

I wrote that article a few years back for buggy owners. I'm glad to see the link distributed and being of some help

OP, I believe I can help you troubleshoot the original 11-pole and perhaps figure out how the variant you have is wired internally. I'm pretty sure that either we can get it working, or at least confirm that nothing/something is burned out. Could save you a few bucks if your current setup is ok, you could sell the newer items. I'm not familiar with the particular variation of stator or rectifier you've posted pictures of, but that's usually not a problem. We can work on it in this thread if you'd like.

That site is full of good info, so thanks for the write up!

That would be awesome if you could help out with this here. What would you need from me to start?

I did some testing last night on the original 11-pole stator. When cranking the engine, (stator unplugged) I got about 5 VAC from AC to AC line (white to yellow, yellow to pink, pink to white), and get about 1 VAC each when they're grounded. Does that mean it's a floating ground system?

Alright cool, I have a bit of a checklist for you.

I'd like for you to take some readings from the stator.


Let's start by unplugging your stator from the rest of the harness, but use a length of wire to jumper the green wire of the stator directly to a good ground spot on the chassis or harness. The two wires with bullet terminals should remain connected.

1. Once your jumper and bullets are in order, start up the engine and read for AC voltage on the stator plug at these pin locations:

Stator Pink to Green = ______ ACv
Stator Yellow to Green = ______ ACv
Stator White to Green = ______ ACv
Stator Pink to Yellow = ______ ACv
Stator Pink to White = ______ ACv
Stator White to Yellow = ______ ACv

2. Now, if you could remove the ground jumper wire and repeat the tests above.

3. With the jumper still removed, check voltage at from the stator wires directly to an unpainted part of the engine casing:
Stator Pink to Engine = ______ ACv
Stator White to Engine = ______ ACv
Stator Yellow to Engine = ______ ACv

This should give us enough information to get a feel for what's going on.

Ok, got the readings filled in below. There may be another issue though; can't start the engine because there's no spark, so I checked the bullet wires too. All readings were taken while cranking.

Bullet wires from the stator read as follows:

red/black (CDI charge?) and get these readings:
50 ACv to ground while it's plugged in----- 1.5 ACv off ground and plugged in.
100 ACv to ground while NOT plugged in----- 8 ACv off ground and not plugged in.
Checked it for DCv too and it reads negative 30ish.

Blue/White (trigger?) and get nothing at all on AC, DC, on or off ground, plugged in or not.


Let's start by unplugging your stator from the rest of the harness, but use a length of wire to jumper the green wire of the stator directly to a good ground spot on the chassis or harness. The two wires with bullet terminals should remain connected.

1. Once your jumper and bullets are in order, start up the engine and read for AC voltage on the stator plug at these pin locations:

Stator Pink to Green = __~1.5__ ACv
Stator Yellow to Green = ___~1.1___ ACv
Stator White to Green = ___~1.5___ ACv
Stator Pink to Yellow = ___~5___ ACv
Stator Pink to White = ___~4.5___ ACv
Stator White to Yellow = ___~5___ ACv

2. Now, if you could remove the ground jumper wire and repeat the tests above.

Readings are pretty much exactly the same for step 2.

3. With the jumper still removed, check voltage at from the stator wires directly to an unpainted part of the engine casing:
Stator Pink to Engine = ___~1.5___ ACv
Stator White to Engine = ___~1.5___ ACv
Stator Yellow to Engine = ___~1.1___ ACv



I've never gotten spark with this stator and rectifier. Could it be bad? I have the new 7 wire rectifier already, and am expecting a new stator on monday with 3 yellows.

Hopefully some of the info above can help shed some light on this thing.

Can't thank you enough for taking the time to help a brother out!!!!!

That sounds about right. Without signal from the blue (trigger), there will be troubles getting spark. Are you sure that you're not reading anything at all from the blue wire? On a digital multimeter you will see normal readings as low as 0.05 AC volts or less. It's actually much higher, but since the signal from the trigger pickup is a nearly instantaneous "blip", most standard meters only register a fraction of a volt. If you get anything at all on the blue, it should be good.

Can you take a couple more readings of the blue wire? We'll want to check for AC volts on the blue wire and with it disconnected from the harness. First with your black multimeter lead on a bare part of the engine case. After that, try taking another reading with the black lead connected to the green wire coming from the stator. Let me know what you find there.

Also, can you check for continuity and resistance from the engine case to the yellow, pink, and white wires respectively?

Good work guys. Keep it up.

Ok, with the multimeter on a more sensitive setting, I do get the blip that you're talking about on the blue/white.

When tested as above, stator all unplugged, blue/white reads:

To engine - .00 ACv
to stator green - .02 ACv
open - as high as .06 ACv

There is zero continuity from the yellow, white, or pink to either the engine or any other grounds. There is .002 ohms between yellow and white, yellow and pink, pink and white.

THEN by chance I took a reading on the blue to open ground without cranking, and the key off (stator unplugged anyway) and was reading .5 ACv!

These were all read on the same digital multimeter I borrowed from work. I'm not so sure I can trust it now, but just in case, I have an analog with a blown fuse. I'll get another fuse for it tomorrow and double check all these tests.

What's really bugging me is that I got great spark on the old 8-pole stator setup. The only thing that wasn't working right was the battery wasn't charging, and the battery tests out good too.

Also, I'll have the other 11-pole stator in tomorrow I hope. The one with 3 yellow wires. I'll swap it out real quick and try these tests again.

What would be the indication of the incorrect rotor/flywheel? Wouldn't do anything right? I ordered them all from the same place btw.

The trigger pickup seems to be doing what it's supposed to. However, the oddity here is that you should also see the same voltage with your black probe touching engine ground too. This is because the trigger pickup bolts directly to the engine casing, using the case to complete the circuit to the CDI. That's why swap harnesses have to have at least one good ground to an unpainted part of the engine. Interesting. I haven't encountered a variant stator with the trigger set up in floating ground before.... in fact I'm not sure how that would be physically arranged. I suppose it's possible, and wouldn't surprise me too much given how many variants GY6 parts there are.

Also, based on the values you've posted I'm almost sure that the charging poles are setup as floating ground too. If you didn't already have a new stator on the way I would offer to trade you the variant for a "standard" 11-pole stator and rectifier. It would be interesting to see what this unit outputs on the 'scope when loaded. You may have a superstator there disguising itself as an expensive paperweight!

I'd like to investigate that trigger wire a little more. Can you check for resistance from the blue wire to engine ground, and then to the green wire?

Also, can you check continuity between the grounding pin of your CDI (number 4 in the diagram below), with your black probe to the green wire on the stator-side of the connection. Let me know what you find both with the stator plug connected and disconnected. - Thanks

Also, most (if not all) 11-pole stators bundles come from the mfg with flywheels that have 8 magnets. Not sure of the waveform geometry involved with this, but it works well. There are a few 8/11 flywheels and stators with differing physical sizes. Ahh, gotta love the "variety" . If it fits, it should work.

Sorry for the big fat watermark in the image. We pretty frequently have competing vendors who come loot our articles and diagrams and repost them on their own site without credit or permission.

That thought had crossed my mind too about the trigger, since it's bolted to the engine. I even took the stator off yesterday and double checked everything before re-doing those tests. I'll take some continuity readings on the stator itself, and the trigger pickup bracket too.

The new stator arrived in Baltimore over the weekend. I'm in Annapolis which isn't too far, so should be here real soon. Out of curiosity, I might also test out the readings on the old 8-pole beforehand, since it's easy enough to swap out real quick.

Depending on what the new stator does, I'll keep your trade offer in mind. Superstator eh? Sounds interesting. lol

My stator was sold separately, but I did order another flywheel, also sold as an 11-pole, also from Scrappy. Maybe I'll check the old flywheel on the 11-pole too, just for the heck of it.

Ahh yes, the variety... love it! lol! I'll check out those other readings tonight and post up.

Well well well... Very interesting development in the case. The new stator came in today, and I took some comparison photos. Seems you were on the exact right track with this one. Take an especially close look at the trigger pickups in the third pic. New stator on the left, original on the right...









See the ground soldered to the pickup bracket? In noticing the difference immediately, I installed the new stator, and bingo! I have spark!!! Do you think the first one could be for a floating ground trigger pickup like you mentioned? And could it be modified to work by soldering a lead to the pickup bracket? I'm going to try to get the 7 wire rectifier hooked up and then, in theory, I should be good to go. Then to test the battery charging and headlights, etc, which will bring me back up to where I was last month with the 8-pole.

Speaking of rectifiers, any idea what the original 5 wire configuration would be for the first one I got? Or maybe it's a rectifier for a completely different setup? I'm going to draft up an email to Mo at Scrappy and let him know our findings. And I just hope that people upgrading in the future search through this thread. lol

Well great f'n news!!! She's a runner! She started up immediately, and I let her idle for a bit. Revved to about 5k for about 15 seconds, and then turned off. When I checked the battery, it was at 100% which means it's getting a charge (after I was cranking with voltage testing earlier).

I think the only question I have left about the 7 wire rectifier is what does the black wire go to? I've seen schematics which have it going to the lights, blinkers, etc, but I haven't taken any measurements on that one yet. I've seen different opinions on how to get juice to the headlight and tail light. I'll keep looking around for that, but so far, 11-pole working wonderfully!

When you find this question out, let me know too!

I was on the search for the longest time trying to figure out where that black wire went. I think i even came across threads that said it was a ground! Looking at that diagram you posted off g2ic, it looks like the black wire is a dc output that is meant to power loads (lights etc) without drawing from the charging wire?

And also, im no pro but that original rectifier you had looked like it was ment for a 6/8 pole because it was lacking so many wires.

I tested the black wire last night (with the engine running at last!) and got zero voltage of any kind. With the engine off, there is some resistance between it and ground, but I don't know what that means either. Will keep hunting and get some answers on that posted in here.

Wondering if you're right, and that 5th black wire serves the same purpose as the mysterious one on the 7 wire rectifiers. It was sold as an 11-pole rectifier, I'm still trying to see if I can get some money back for it.